DISCLAIMER: The post is a novel. Hopefully an entertaining one, but I wrote a lot porque yo estoy enamorada de Espana (because I’m in love with Spain). Enjoy!
I think it’s safe to say I just had one of the best weekends of my life. Never have I been as enamored with a city, people, the culture, the food, the language, and the sights, and I was this past weekend in Madrid, Spain. Viva la Espana!
Allie, Ally, Kelsey, Anna, Meaghan, and I woke up Thursday morning at 2:30am (which is usually my bedtime), to catch a cab to the airport for our flight at 6am. Although I had a less-than-pleasant snafu with the *delightful* Ryan Air attendants at the gate, who decided that my carry-on was just too cool to be a carry-on (are you sensing some sarcasm here?)… I tried to put that behind me during the 2-hour ride to Madrid.
We arrived in the city, and the first stop was our hostel. The Madrid Metro, though it was a loooong walk from the terminal we flew into, was extremely easy to navigate—even for us. Our stop was “Tirso de Molina”, which I think is generally translated to mean “The Heart of the City”. After a little bit of navigation troubles (we really need to learn to get maps before getting to the hostel), we found out hostel. I really can’t say enough good things about our hostel—The Ways Hostel. Every person we encountered at the front desk was really friendly, and more than happy to recommend an activity, restaurant, or place to go, and the hostel itself was really clean and had more features than any other hostel I’ve stayed in (free internet, AND free computers to use!).
After checking into the hostel, we set out, maps in hand, to find the Plaza Mayor. I was really excited to see that it was only a few blocks from our hostel. The Plaza Mayor is basically a large cobblestone square, enclosed by tall somewhat-gothic-looking buildings, which I think are now apartments. There’s a big horse stature in the middle of the plaza, and basically, if you’re a tourist, it’s the place to be. So, being tourists, we took a lot of pictures, and observed (mostly from afar) some of the street performers. There has to be at least a dozen performers that entertain in the plaza throughout the day, including, but not limited to: someone in a Winnie the Pooh costume, 2 different people in Mickey Mouse costumes, someone in a Minnie Mouse costume, a rotund man in a skin-tight Spiderman outfit, and a woman entirely covered in different fruits. And those are the most normal performers there, no joke.
We spent most of the rest of the afternoon wandering around main areas of the city. The Puerto del Sol, the Botanical Gardens, and more. After a quick refresher-session at the hostel, we made our way to a bar that the guy at the hostel claimed was “really popular, really authentic, and really cheap.” The bar was called El Tigre, and we had been told the tapas (small appetizers) there were delicious, and, even better, that they came free once you ordered a drink. Tapas are huuuuge in Spain, most likely because the progression of the day there is a lot different than America (or the rest of Europe for that matter). From what I know, breakfast is eaten around 8-9am, lunch is eaten during siesta around 2-4pm, then many Spainards will have tapas around 7-9pm, and dinner between 10pm-midnight. That’s definitely a schedule I could get used to. We took turns ordering drinks at El Tigre, a task in itself with the language barrier, and then triumphantly returned to the table bearing plates of mostly-unknown foods. From what I could decipher, we were given some type of cheese, slices of bread with jamon (ham/bacon) and morcillo (blood sausage), tortilla espanola (basically a potato and egg quiche-type thing), and patatas fritas (french fries with a spicy sauce). And El Tigre definitely delivered—the food was delicious, and it was so nice to get a lot of bang for our buck compared to in Dublin, where you would never find a 3.50 beer, let alone one that came with piles of food. We washed the food down with some churros from another restaurant (so great! And I’d never had them before), and then headed to a Flamenco show. The Flamenco show was like nothing I’d ever seen before. I was expecting something a lot more like the tango- graceful sweeping movements across a large dance floor- but instead it was more like the dancers and musicians choreographed and conducted an entire musical with all the sounds of their voices, feet, and guitar. It really was very impressive to watch.
Friday was packed from start to finish. Allie and I woke up around 9am to grab breakfast at the hostel, and then we set off to find La Palicia Real (the royal palace). On the way we saw a huge cathedral, which we stopped in to take a lot of pictures. I’ve never been in a cathedral so big- it had so many different statues and paintings and areas, I feel like if I ever went to a mass there I wouldn’t be able to pay much attention with so many different things to look at. The palace didn’t disappoint either. It definitely wasn’t anything like Buckingham Palace, especially because it felt a lot more authentic, rather than refurbished. But between the amazingly ornate ceiling carvings, and beautiful woven silk wall-coverings, it definitely had its own character and beauty. Afterwards Meaghan, Meaghan’s friend Marisa who was visiting Madrid for the day, Allie, and I set off for the Prado, a massive art museum on the opposite side of the city. The Prado contains over 20,000 paintings from artists like El Greco, Velazquez, Rembrandt, Rubens, Goya, and more. Because Marisa is taking an art history class, she played tour guide and took us through many of the Spanish art galleries while explaining the significance of the paintings she recognized. It was awesome to be in the presence of the works of so many predominant artists of the Renaissance, Baroque, and Enlightenment periods. We capped off our afternoon with sandwiches in the Parque del Retiro (the park of retreat, it used to be a king’s hunting grounds but was later turned into a park), and then we huffed it back across the city just in time to catch the gorgeous sunset at The Temple.
We began Saturday morning with a market-seeking failure. Although I had read in two separate guidebooks about a market called El Rastro from 9am-2pm on Saturday, it hadn’t even begun to be set up when we arrive at La Plaza Cascorro around 10am. So instead we wandered over to El Parque del Retiro and spent most of the morning just sitting on some steps that overlooked a large lake. The park itself is huge, and probably the greenest area we saw during our entire weekend in Spain. We found a cute little bar/cafĂ© for lunch, and the woman who worked there was so nice. Between her broken English, and my broken Spanish, we were actually able to perfectly communicate in order to get some delicious tortilla Espanola bocadillas (sandwiches). After lunch we went to the Reina Sophia, a large contemporary art museum with many works by Miro, Salvador Dali, and Picasso, the most famous of which is Picasso’s “La Guernica”. Guernica was HUGE! Much bigger than I expected, and of course there were dozens of tourists crowding around it as close as they could get to the tape-line on the ground. After we had our afternoon fill of art, Allie and I went and found her dream pair of black leather boots, we ate a really good Napolitano jamon y queso (ham and cheese napoleon- a stuff croissant basically), and then met up with the rest of the girls at a cave bar for dinner.
I’m not really sure the significance of the cave bars, but whatever it is, it was really cool. There are a few of them around the outside of one corner of the Plaza Mayor, and you enter the cave bar from the street. The one we went to had a drawbridge-style entry, with chains attached from the walls to the fake drawbridge below. Then you take a couple short flights of stairs below ground, and our table was tucked into a little room with stone walls and small red velvet benches to sit on. We ordered a smorgasbord of tapas: pan (bread), chorizo (red pepper spicy sausage), tortilla espanola (spanish tortilla), patatas fritas (fried potatoes/French fries with 6 different sauces), and of course a few vasos de sangria (glasses of sangria) to go with it. Everything was delicious, the camareras (waiters) were muy simpatico (very nice), and we spent a few hours down there just enjoying life. It was a great end to our day.
On Sunday, Anna, Ally, and Kelsey were leaving, so Allie and I decided to take a day trip to Segovia. We debated between Segovia and Toledo, and though the guy at the hostel recommended Toledo, we eventually chose Segovia because we heard the palace there was the inspiration behind Cinderella’s castle at Disneyland. On our way to the bus station we crossed through the Plaza Mayor, and then stumbled upon the start of a large parade. So immediately we knew it was going to be a good day. The parade was full of people dancing, groups of kids carrying really tall flagpoles (and then trying to either climb the poles or balance them on their chins), men who thought we were Spanish-speaking Germans/Bulgarians and wanted to take lots of pictures with us and were even more excited when they found out we were actually Americanos, carts being pulled by oxen, and dozens of men riding horses while drinking cervezas or eating sandwiches. By stopping in a souvenir shop right along the road where the parade was, we found out that the parade is held annually to celebrate the treatment of animals. We made it to the end of the parade, and then hopped a bus to head to Segovia.
Segovia is the epitome of a traditional quaint spanish town, and one of the most charming places I’ve ever seen. The cobblestone streets are full of children and families, and tables of restaurants spill out onto the streets. I don’t think I heard hardly anyone speaking English the entire afternoon we were there, and it definitely was a test of my spanish skills to do something as simple as find a place for lunch. The first thing we saw in Segovia was el aqueducto (the aquaduct). It’s a large picturesque aqueduct, left over from the roman empire, though it was actually in use until the mid-1900s. We climbed up the steps at the end of the aquaduct to see some great views of Segovia, and then headed towards la catedral (the cathedral). The cathedral almost looks like something out of Aladdin, or the Taj Mahal, and though I’m not sure, my guess is because it was probably built by the Muslims, and then made into a Catholic Cathedral after the reconquista. It was huuuuuge, but unfortunately we couldn’t go in because it’s under reconstruction.
Finally, we made it to the alcazar—the castle. The castle itself is at the edge of Segovia, overlooking miles of countryside and smaller towns below. And it does look a lot like Cinderella’s castle. The entire time we were there I was just thinking about how cool it must be to live in one of the smaller towns outside Segovia and below the castle, and to wake up with that beautiful castle in your skyline every morning. Once we climbed to the top of the castle’s torre (tower) we had even better views of Segovia behind us, and we especially could see how large and prominent the cathedral was in Segovia’s skyline. Although the views were nothing like Dublin—instead of wide kelly-green grassy countryside we saw terracotta roofs and brown sandy landscape—they were very much beautiful in their own way. We returned from Segovia and finished off our day with bocadillas (calamari for Allie and pork loin for me), and jamon rotos (“broken eggs and ham” which turned out to be French fries with eggs and ham on top… and very delicious). It was the perfect end to the perfect trip.
All in all, I loved every minute of Spain. I loved the people, their culture, the food and drinks, their way of life (it was so strange to see how busy the city still was even at 11pm on a Sunday night!), their language, and everything about it. I even decided to take a Spanish class back at Elon next semester to brush up on my Spanish-speaking skills. But going to places as amazing as Spain makes me want to do nothing but travel—Europe, Central America, Asia, everywhere. I think it would be incredible to work overseas after I graduate, and I’ve found multiple places where I would love to live. I love being in Europe so much and, though I miss my family and friends, I don’t want to leave. Especially now that my adventure has surpassed the halfway-point, I feel like it’s a race to do everything I want to do here. Onto Italy next weekend!
Cheers!
